South Africa has potential to serve a share of the US$800bn global gastronomic tourism market but there is a lot of work to be done. Part of that work is defining, harnessing and promoting its identity as a food destination to the world.
In frank discussions over two days at the inaugural SA Chef Conference and Expo in Cape Town, food industry heavyweights grappled with issues around regulation, sustainability and the state of gastronomy tourism in the country. Even the phrase “gastronomy tourism” was debated as attendees questioned the inclusivity of the term.
In a video address, Minister of Tourism Patricia de Lille said: “South Africa is on its way to being a leader in this field but a lot more work needs to be done.”
She called on the leaders in South Africa’s culinary arena to keep pushing the boundaries and to develop a strategy that speaks to the diversity of food and flavours across our country to ensure that it is inclusive.
Although the Gastronomy Tourism Framework consultations have closed, she said it is still in draft format and called on participants to send inputs on what the framework should entail.
South Africa has been steadily growing its reputation as a food tourism city by collecting accolades such as the World’s Best Food City awarded to Cape Town in the 2024 Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Choice Awards.
David Frost, CEO of the Southern Africa Tourism Services Association (SATSA), said South Africa has a unique opportunity to attract visitors like those flocking to Italy for its food. “The Overberg should be our Tuscany. We have an opportunity to put places like that on the map.”
Chefs weigh in
However, some of the country’s most renowned chefs pointed to confusion about authentic, South African food due to gaps in knowledge and marketing.
“There isn’t a clear channel showcasing brilliant people presenting really delicious food,” said Steenberg Executive Chef Kerry Kilpin.
Chef Chris Erasmus, who has just opened his new Terrarium Restaurant in Cape Town at the V&A Waterfront’s Queen Victoria Hotel, agreed foodies are confused and “don’t know where to go".
Chef Gregory Henderson said: “We eat very differently in all the different regions of South African and we don’t celebrate this.”
Celebrating South African cuisine includes using local and indigenous ingredients. However, said Chef Pete Goffe Wood, in one of the most biodiverse regions on the planet, this topic shouldn’t be included in a panel discussion. “That’s the problem with our food and the reason why it has no identity. Every other recognised region of the world cooks with what grows locally – when it grows.”
Association support
Chairperson of the Federated Hospitality Association of South Africa in the Western Cape Lee-Anne Singer also cautioned against an outsized focus on international tourists when domestic tourists are the bread and butter for many in the food industry.
South African Tourism data shows that domestic day and overnight trippers spent over R5.5 billion (€288.1m) on food and beverages in 2021.
Frost called on the industry to work together on actionable plans SATSA could support and share at the highest level.
Cape Town Mayoral Committee Member for Safety JP Smith, who also has events in his portfolio, said the city is reviewing regulations in a bid to make food events easier to host – this includes adopting a food truck policy.
“There is a big gap for food festivals,” he said, adding that the city provides financial and in-kind support for events that promote tourism or stimulate the economy.
“If you have a unique or interesting culinary or food-related experience, especially in communities that do not normally benefit from events, we may be able to assist.”
